How We Found
King Henry's VIII Royal Book of Spirits
Which Was Kept By
The KEEPER of The SPI RITS
Sir Nigel Glevelle, Earl of Taunton
(1510-1528)

BY
PAUL QUACKENBUSH

Sir Nigel Glevelle, Earl of Taunton
SIR NIGEL GLEVILLE,
EARL OF TAUNTON

in his office with his Spirit Book.

ecause I was getting ready to launch Taunton's Blackthorn Dry Hard Cider in America I was spending a great deal of time with my business associate, Conrad Martin, who lives in Glastonbury, England, the town that is both a "mythical center", and "hard cider" center of England. Glastontury located in Somerset County has been the center of hard cider production for over 2000 years because of its cider apple orchids.


Paul and Conrad
where they met Rector Smythe

   bout a year ago . . . It was a beautiful English spring day that screamed out "Put on your tweed jacket and go for a long walk down a country road and watch the larks ascending, feel the ancient spirits still alive in the fields, taste the flavor of the apple tree's blossoming in the air". So Conrad and I decided to take a long walk, during which he always uses to point ….over there… and say…"Right there, by that apple tree, is where Lancelot drank a tall goblet of cider". 


St. George
St. George
s we were meandering along the roads, where St. George pursued fire breathing dragons, who harassed fair damsels, we see bicycling towards us Dr. Smythe, the Rector of Glastonbury Cathedral. He stops and greets us, we talk about the weather, theharvest, local gossip and then Dr. Smythe asks if we have heard about the "old book" that was discovered in the attic of the recently deceased, Mrs. Crowe

       Glastonbury Cathedral
 
Th ROYAL BOOK of SPIRITS
Book of Spirits


he book
on Rector Smythe's desk was obviously very very old. It's leather cover was very worn. The good Rector knew its value to us, which is why he was contacting Conrad, who is well known in Glastonbury as a "spirit archaeologist". We were told that the book was now owned by Mrs. Crowe's younger sister, who was 93 years old, and wanted to sell it and asked Dr. Smythe to help.

ith a creaking of its cover we opened the book to the first page and there written with the flourish of an accomplished hand was written: Accounts and Ledger, Keeper of Spirits.

Studying the Book of Spirits
Studying the Book of Spirits

 onrad and I knew we had a major find in front of us; the key to a new business. This was like finding the Lost Ark, Excalibur, the Treasure of Montezuma, or King Tut's Tomb…… if you love the spirits that are rooted in British history…. we had just stumbled on a major treasure trove, and discovered that Sir Nigel Gleville, Earl Of Taunton, had kept minutely detailed records of how he kept Henry VIII's court supplied with the finest spirits. (Note: In history any beverage that had alcoholic content was considered "a spirit" whether it was distilled or fermented)

 ow Rector Smythe is no dummy; he knew this was a "spirit treasure" because he studied the book. Hegot right to the point when he said…"Wouldn't mind ordering a few bottles of these", as he turned the pages until he came to some very exotic spirits that were made for the Royal court, and tapped his finger on the page.

 

 

QUENCHING THE THIRST OF A ROYAL COURT
THAT LOVED TO PARTY WAS A FULL TIME JOB

    ecause English history is so well documented both Conrad and I were aware of the role that the "Keeper of the Spirits" played at Royal Courts. We had seen these books, behind glass, in various museums and had said many times…."I wonder what's in that book?…Wouldn't it be interesting to drink what was poured at a king's table?"

King Henry VIII's Coronation
rom the time that Great Harry became king in 1509 until his death in 1547, the luxury, pomp and extravagance of his court was without equal in Europe. A sportsman, a warrior, a hunter, a poet, musician, and a statesman, he was a man of enormous appetites. He loved competing in jousts and even wars. But he was also culturally aware and especially loved creating "fantastic" feasts, celebrations, and theatrical events that would last for days and entertain hundreds of his guests.
King Henry VIII

    enry VIII was a highly cultured man who was fluent in French and Latin, who composed music, a patron of the arts, kept a staff of Europe's finest painters busy at court; he also enjoyed the renaissance thinkers and brought Erasmus to court. He was also famous for his love life, which was directly responsible for England's split from the Catholic church and the establishment of the Church of England. (Note: The Pope did not approve of his six marriages and his twelve mistresses).

But politics, sex, romance and religion is not our focus here, so we return to Harry's love of food and drink.

et me describe a "normal" dinner so as you read you can imagine what was required to produce such an event, and the quantity of spirits that guests consumed:

"Between five hundred and a thousand people ate from King Henry's bounty every day; on special occasion it could rise to fifteen hundred. Feeding them required nearly as much planning, provisioning and scheduling as feeding an army on campaign. When the vast hall or great chamber was filled for dinner or supper, and the diners removed their caps to shouts out "Room for the sewer!" as the dishes were brought in, there were nearly always more mouths to be fed than anyone had foreseen".

But it was arry's famous feasts
that set his court apart from all others:

Banqueting at Court
anqueting at the court of Henry VIII was of gargantuan proportions. Nowhere was the food so plentiful and varied as in England. It was said that the English stomach had need of more food than others, and the distinctive English habit of shameless belching at the table was an eloquent testimony to their capacity. Sumptuary laws passed in 1517 limited the number of dishes to seven or fewer, but as each course called for perhaps a dozen dishes, restraint was easily mistaken for excess. And the king himself was exempt from these restrictions. In one "normal" day of feasting his courtiers consumed eleven carcasses of beef, six sheep, seventeen hogs and pigs, forty five dozen chickens, fifteen swan, six cranes, thirty two dozen pigeons and fifty four dozen larks, six dozen geese and four peacocks. Three thousand pears and thirteen hundred apples went to flavor the meat and fowl, while bakers provided three thousand loaves of bread and the buttery nearly four hundred dishes of butter.

Here is an eye witness account of one of these banquets:

       o many courses and dishes were served that for once there were "too many to tell", and indeed too many for the guests. The King had ordered four courses of ten pairs of dishes in each, but thoughtfully eliminated one course of ten to reduce the time that the ambassadors would have to sit at the table. As it was, he would have had to partake of thirty pair of such dishes: roast capons and partridges, civets of hare, meat and fish aspics, lark pasties and rissoles of beef marrow, black pudding and sausages, lampreys and savory rice, entrement of swan, peacocks, bitterns and heron "born on high," pasties of venison and small birds, fresh and salt water fish with gravy of shade "the color of peach blossom," white leeks and plovers, duck and roast chitterlings, stuffed pigs, eels reversed, frizzled bean, finishing off with fruit wafers, pears, comfits, medlars,peeled nuts and spiced cider".*
                                  

     learly the scope and magnificence of Henry's dining habits were well documented which brings us back to the nitty gritty daily management and responsibility of satisfying the court's appetite and thirst. And let me add this other dimension: not only the rich, the famous and noble had to be fed, the entire court's staff, from stable boys to rat men to chamber maids had to provided for, and that meant thousands of meals every day, and that meant . . .

Sir Nigel Glevelle
    ord Gleville, The Keeper of the Spirits, which was an appointment of great prestige, and his staff of twenty, were responsible for assuring that there was enough of the right kind of "spirits" to quench the court's thirst, and in a world that considered drinking water barbaric or lethal, this was a considerable challenge. Literally tens of thousands of liters of spirits were delivered to court every week. Even greater quantities were needed for holidays, weddings, celebrations such as feasts honoring ambassadors.

his was not only an enormous management challenge, this also required a degree of creativity because it was expected that innovations in spirits would appear periodically to delight the sophisticated taste of the Royal guests.

IT BOGGLES OUR MIND

o we return to Dr. Smythe's office where Conrad and I are gently leafing through a five hundred year old book that is giving us the detailed account of the daily beverage needs of Great Harry's court.

King Henry VIII
t is hard to describe the intense emotions this book evoked in us. We knew we had to have it. As we stared at the book, whose leather cover now looked like tree bark, there in front of us was Sir Nigel Gleville's writing with his quill pen. As we turned the creaking pages a strong musty aroma from across five centuries filled Rector Smythe's office. Though much of writing was faded we could still read the details of hundreds of Royal feasts and celebrations. It boggled our imagination, page upon page of details about wines, brandies, ciders, and beers…including shipments made to the Kings of other countries as gifts….and receipts of casks of spirits as gifts from other royal courts. Some of the old paper pages, heavy as parchment, were covered with mold spots, spilled ink, and notes about successes and failures..
Jane Seymor
here in front of us, well documented, was Sir Nigel's huge beverage procurements for Henry VIII's infamous marriages. As you know Henry VIII was a man of enormous appetites in all things….from wives to fine clothes…and he appears to have been very demanding that new beverages be created to impress his guests…especially the ambassadors from France..because the French King was his chief rival. I noticed that Conrad's hand started to shake as he touched the pages.

   as finding this book a direct intervention by "The God Who Plays Rugby and designed the Spitfire", who wanted us to bring these long lost beverage treasures back to life? It was an emotionally draining negotiation with Rector Smythe because we knew this was more than a business transaction, we were becoming the custodians of a national "spirit" treasure.

   e had no choice, we bit the bullet and paid the price, thanked Dr. Smythe for his trust in us, and went out and celebrated.

   nd so now, about a year from the day we…meander down that English country road it is time for us to bring back to life the long lost spirit treasures of Sir Nigel Gleville, Earl Of Taunton, Henry VIII's Spirit Keeper, so you too may experience the genius of English spirit artisans who served the Royal Court.

 

*Great Harry, Carolly Erickson, St. Martin's Griffin.